Greeted with a welcoming smile by not one, not two, not even three, but four members of staff as we entered Merlot Brasserie, it was immediately clear that customer service is taken seriously at the Cheltenham town centre restaurant.

In fact the only thing perhaps taken more seriously at Merlot Brasserie is the menu – which shortly revealed an array of exotic dishes that seemingly hop-scotched across the planet, picking-up Mediterranean, Asian, American and European flavours along the journey.

After casting our eyes around the small, but perfectly formed, downstairs dining room – with its modern understated décor befitting of the restaurant’s elegant Cheltenham town house home – we were shown to a table for two with a view looking out through enormous Georgian windows.

We decided against a bottle of Merlot’s namesake and instead opted for a lighter, oaky Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and had time to soak-up the relaxed atmosphere before a plate of plump Cajun-spiced tiger prawns with tender fried baby squid arrived. Although the accompanying sweet corn salsa seemed an odd combination, the dish was a flavoursome start to the evening but the twice-baked blue cheese and walnut soufflé showed-off the chef’s talents more visibly however – offering deep flavours that complimented the oven-dried tomato and basil salad.

With a high standard set, we were not disappointed when a slow-braised free-range pork belly was served next, proving the evening’s worthy highlight. The tender hunk of melt-in-the-mouth pork was given an interesting twist with an aromatic Thai blend of chilli, lime and palm sugar sauce, served with crunchy Asian greens and coriander-infused pilaf rice – combining a whirlwind of flavours that worked together commendably well. My juicy corn-fed duck breast with parsnip puree, lentils, smoky bacon and red cabbage, served with a port jus – again, melded together a complex blend of flavours with confidence, for a particularly hearty dish that would fill the biggest of appetites.

For afters, confronted with the decidedly difficult task of choosing between a sticky fig pudding and roasted plum brûlée, the double choc and hazelnut brownie won – and proved a calorific treat for the sweet toothed diner at the table for two, aka me. While the vintage cheddar and blue brie cheese board, accompanied by Duchy Original biscuits and tangy grape chutney, was a satisfying end to the evening on the opposite side of the table.

While perhaps not appealing to traditionalists, Merlot Brasserie’s strikingly unusual menu will certainly please the adventurous diners exploring Cheltenham’s culinary offerings. And with a button-popping evening behind us, we agreed that while the banquet of bold international flavours on offer at Merlot Brasserie would leave a lasting impression, it was the stylish cuisine combined with impeccable service that guarantees we will be making a return visit to this town centre gem.

The average price for a three-course meal for two at Merlot Brasserie, excluding drinks, is around £55.

Michelle Byrne
21 January 2008