A laidback, laissez-faire style has been fully embraced by Brasserie Blanc; with linen white tables for two lining the aisles, busy staff dressed in black hurrying back and forth to the kitchen, while relaxed chatter from the plethora of diners bounces off the ceiling. Modern, elegant upturned chandeliers line the middle of the restaurant and carefully-positioned spotlights illuminate cheeky pop art prints of Raymond Blanc – adding a burst of colour to the white regency walls.

Décor aside, the real reason for our Saturday evening visit to this rebranded haunt was the almost too-good-to-be-true sounding ‘dine with wine’ promotion, which includes two courses and a glass of house wine for £15 or three courses for an extra £2.50. Available to diners seated before 7pm, Mondays to Saturdays, the regularly-changing promotional menu boasts a selection of three starters, mains and deserts (including a vegetarian option) to choose from.

As my waistline-watching dining companion passed on the starters – instead opting to spill crumbs on herself from the delicious French bread for want of a side plate – my eyes bulged at the ham hock and parsley terrine I had ordered. The farmhouse-style dish, boasting tender hunks of ham albeit with a subtle overall flavour was washed down with a glass of superb Chateau St Chinian merlot, while the equally-fine glass of white Domaine St Jean Conques was sipped by my now covered-in-crumbs friend.

Despite the fact that every table was full to capacity, our efficient waitress wasn’t fazed by the continuous hustle and bustle, and no sooner had my starter been swept away than the mains had arrived – a timely benefit of a limited promotional selection. The steaming bowl of spring vegetable risotto was a triumph for my partner – packing a punch of creamy, well-seasoned flavour and an agreeable crunch from the vibrant al dente vegetables. My simple minute steak was also a success – offering a juicey slither of tender rump, accompanied by a smattering of French fries and a decent, calorific fresh mayonnaise.

The much-anticipated deserts included a steaming-hot and satisfyingly sour rhubarb crumble – which although it could have perhaps had its crumble to fruit ratio re-appraised – was nicely complemented by a good dollop of quality vanilla ice-cream. My bread and butter pudding was a surprisingly light dish packed with plump sultanas, and both plates were soon scraped clean.

As we settled the bill, yet more diners hovered at the adjoining bar, waiting for tables to empty. Clearly the full priced menu (which you can expect to pay around £15 for a main course) was equally as popular as their ‘wine and dine’ promotion. Yet on more than one occasion older diners were escorted through the restaurant, with faces struggling to hide their curiosity over what had happened to the famous Cheltenham eatery.

If you are considering a visit to Brasserie Blanc, don’t expect to find the up-market fine dining restaurant that was once Le Petit Blanc. Instead book a table in the modern, fast-paced eatery with a contemporary French menu using fine ingredients, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised. Whether the new restaurant earns as good a reputation as its predecessor, only time will tell, but as long as the penny-pinching promotions are running, it will be a regular haunt for the SoGlos.com team.

The average price for a three-course meal for two at Blanc Brasserie, excluding drinks, is around £60.

James Fryer
25 May 2007