Having amassed an array of accolades from the likes of Conde Nast Traveller through to GQ Magazine and Britain’s best broadsheets, expectations were decidedly high as we entered Cowley Manor’s grounds off the idyllic Gloucestershire country lane. And, as we passed lakes glimmering with glorious afternoon sunshine as the Grade II listed 19th century Italianate mansion came into view against a sky of deep blue, levels of excitement too reached a veritable boiling point.

There were smiles aplenty in the hotel’s reception, where the young staff clad in an unexpected combo of t-shirts and woollen waistcoats instantly set a relaxed and unpretentious tone – proudly introducing the hotel as we were escorted to our ‘exceptional’ room (Cowley’s rooms range from good, better and great to exceptional and best). ‘There’s no dress code in the restaurant and just let us know if you need anything at all,’ we were warmly informed, before following the usual ritual of exploring every nook and cranny of our new temporary home.

And a fabulous temporary home it was too; spacious, light and airy with a modern king-size four-poster bed; hand-made, British-crafted purple lounge chairs from which to enjoy a DVD from the hotel’s library, a copy of C.S. Lewis’ biography or music from the Bose iPod dock; with the stylish, wooden-floored bathroom hosting an inviting deep bath, walk-in shower, double sinks and plenty of the hotel’s characteristic geranium-scented products to leave you feeling thoroughly pampered.

The pièce de résistance, however, were the tall bay windows swung open to reveal a spacious decked-balcony with views over the hotel’s glorious 55 acres. Sporting wellington boots, courtesy of Cowley Manor, we couldn’t wait to set off for a closer look – returning a good couple of hours later having discovered mature woodland home to ducks and pheasants, well-kept lawns leading the eyes to the surrounding hills, an Alice in Wonderland-esque swing, storybook secret garden, crumbling statues, banks of snowdrops and a picture-perfect early 13th century church.

It’s only upon re-entering the manor did we realise just how well the modernist décor inside has been married with the world which surrounds it – from the dedicated billiards room with its studded leather walls and bright blue-clothed table, The Bar at Cowley Manor with cheeky papier-mâché game trophies through to the chilled lounge playing home to an eclectic mix of furniture, tranquil pastel tones in abundance and enough magazines and board games to while away the longest of weekends.

Come evening and we found sanctuary in the aforementioned bar, enjoying cocktails served with panache while a roaring fire flickered away at one end of the room. Then onto the magnificent restaurant – boasting ornate oak panelling in what is one part of the hotel to have retained its classic country manor features – to enjoy a memorable evening including a flavoursome monkfish noodle stir fry and exceptional steak which might have even topped SoGlos.com’s last visit to The Restaurant at Cowley Manor.

And our weekend break of indulgence didn’t stop their either, as sunrise saw a return to the restaurant for a fresh, hearty full English complete with plenty of fresh Cotswold ingredients, and a reappearance of the consistently warm service we were quickly becoming accustomed to. And that was all before we donned swimming costumes and took a lengthy dip in both the indoor and outdoor pools at C-Side, Cowley Manor’s award-winning spa, which is nothing short of an architectural wonder, sunk into the grounds of the hotel just a short way from the mansion itself. While one member of the SoGlos.com team enjoyed a signature Cloud 9 ‘bliss-inducing’ treatment in the spa, I contemplated using the gym, steam room and sauna, before resigning to the fact the combination of a heated outdoor pool and crisp spring air were just too good to part with for a work-out.

Forget all of your preconceptions about country house hotels – whether they conjure up images of members of the tweed brigade scoffing over afternoon tea with dainty tea sets or not – Cowley Manor is a decidedly unique Gloucestershire hotel. It’s a millionaire’s playground without the pretension, a funky and chic homage to modern design while still retaining the beauty of a historic masterpiece, and an escape a few miles – and light years – away from the hustles and bustles of nearby Cheltenham.

A one-night stay for two people at Cowley Manor costs from £245, including breakfast.

Don’t miss the Cowley Manor photo gallery and, to find out more about the staying at the hotel, visit cowleymanor.com, email stay@cowleymanor.com or call (01242) 870900.

James Fryer
25 March 2008