Relaxing on the Lower Slaughter Manor’s manicured striped lawn with a glass of chilled champagne as guests arrive by private helicopter, it is hard to imagine a finer way to spend a warm summer’s evening in Gloucestershire. But as SoGlos.com discovered, what’s hidden inside the impressive Cotswold hotel is more than worth a flying visit.

After being escorted through the 17th century manor’s grand lounge, and taking a short walk past the glass-fronted wine cabinets – brimming with more than 200 old and new world choices – you are instantly taken aback by The Slaughter Restaurant’s sumptuous intimately-sized dining room.

No expense has been spared with chocolate brown silk wallpaper, chandeliers hanging overhead and a dozen or so tables adorned with fine linen, simple white china and stylish glassware. A central cushioned seating area, adorned with overflowing stems of freshly-cut lilies, divides the restaurant, with tables arranged to create a series of cosy dining spaces for romantic dinners and jovial get-togethers with friends alike.

The Slaughter Restaurant’s menu resonates quality, with a modest choice of tempting delicacies including duck breast with spiced foie gras and Chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce – both popular choices being ordered in all four corners of the room.

Across the table my dining companion sang her starter’s praises – a trio of plump king scallops, seared on the outside and delicately soft in the middle, accompanied by lashings of a light pea cream, drizzled onto the dish at the very last minute, along with finely sliced courgettes and al-dente florets of cauliflower. My oak smoked crown of quail boasted deep earthy flavours, offset by a sweet and crumbly Perigord black pudding, crispier than crisp pancetta and a soft poached quail’s egg. With both dishes making the most of the very finest ingredients, it’s no surprise plates were returned to the kitchen sparkling clean.

The restaurant’s predominantly French staff had clearly fine-tuned their skills of service – never falling into the trap of loitering overhead while always being on hand whenever needed. And the sommelier also deserves a special mention, if not for his clear passion for the restaurant and a recommendation of an excellent bottle of red Sancerre from the Loire valley, but for putting up with a grilling from the SoGlos.com team about the extensive range of wine on offer.

Louic, the resident wine buff, finally managed to escape when the mains arrived – including a dish which was the pièce de résistance of the evening, if not the year. The only downside was that it wasn’t my course, so instead I had to suffice with a couple of reluctantly-provided forkfuls of the delicate monkfish with baby spinach and shitake mushrooms, alongside a sublime shellfish tartlet – with a rich crab cream which held the individual magical tastes together with an alchemist’s touch.

My poached breast of guinea fowl also impressed – a generous portion of hearty, succulent game with a crispy truffle potato cake, baby vegetables and a full-bodied truffle jus – complex flavours combined with confidence by head chef David Kelman.

Despite already bulging bellies, it took little convincing before we opted for a light and fluffy baked Valrhona chocolate soufflé with toasted marshmallow and Horlicks ice cream, as well as a selection of fine British cheeses – with Gloucestershire’s finest well represented, complemented by a tangy homemade chutney.

With the evening’s gastronomic journey complete, we retired to the drawing room for coffee and petit fours, envious of the guests jetting off in their helicopter, yet delighted to have such a culinary highlight on our doorstep. Dining at The Slaughter Restaurant made for an evening which is going to be more than a little tricky to surpass.

The average price for a three-course meal for two at The Slaughter Restaurant, excluding drinks, is around £90.

James Fryer
8 August 2007